Hi sewing friends! I’m Jennifer and have been using Violette Field Threads patterns for almost 6 years now, but have been sewing since I was a little girl. I used to make my own clothes when I was a kid and even designed and sewed my own wedding dress without a pattern. I’m just now getting back into trying to make more of my wardrobe after quite a few years of having babies. I’m wanting to fill it with things that aren’t so, well, basic, so I’m excited VFT is creating more women’s patterns. Yay!
Of course, when I saw they were releasing Ashton in misses I fell in love the same way I had with the Ashton girls and baby. Those sleeves (insert heart eyes)! The first Ashton version I made was the short sleeve dress. Love! While sewing, I couldn’t help my creative wandering mind from thinking up my next version. I am sure many of you can relate to that. I wanted my next one to be a peplum top because that has always been a very flattering shape on me. I was in love with the button-down back that the blouse version offered. I had also recently Pinned a ready-to-wear top because of its ruffles in the bodice seams. I knew I wanted to include all of these details in my next sew. Easy peasy, thanks to all of the construction techniques I had gleaned sewing up VFT patterns. As I was trying my garment on between steps, I caught a glimpse of a v-shaped back, just like VFT’s Pixie! Yes! So I adjusted to add that in my design too. As I laid my finished Ashton down to snap some pics, I wondered in my head if I couldn’t wear it backwards, and wallah, this hacked version of Ashton was born.
I’m excited to walk you through the simple changes you can make to create a similar one for yourself. Don’t worry, I created these steps to put the button placket down the front bodice pieces so you won’t have to wear it backwards!
Have your pattern instructions handy as I will be referring you to use those at the appropriate times.
Also, forgive any splotches on my cutting mat. It got used for a painting project. Whoops!
ALTERING PATTERN PIECES FOR FRONT BUTTON PANELS, V NECKLINE AND PEPLUM SKIRT
- Print off and tape together the Ashton Misses dress bodice and sleeve pattern pieces in the size you need. *I sized down for a slimmer fit.
- Add ¾” from the center side edge of the FRONT bodice pattern piece before cutting out. Remove ¾” from the center side edge of the BACK bodice pattern piece. Cut out both pieces.
3. Next, you will measure down the center edge of the FRONT BODICE piece and mark where you would like the V-cut to hit. I marked 6 1/4” down from the top. Remember this will be ½” lower still after sewing due to seam allowance. **You may wish to make this plunge less or more or not at all depending on what suits your body shape best or what you feel comfortable with. (I could do a v-cut down to my waist and I promise you nothing of interest would show when I wore it, haha!). You will then take a ruler and place it against the neckline where the shoulder starts to curve and lay it across to meet up with the marking you just made. Mark a line and cut off this portion of the FRONT BODICE piece.
**Note: I suggest cutting and sewing the shoulder seams of your lining and trying it on to see the V is sitting where you like it before moving forward with cutting your main fabric. If you choose to do this, follow steps 1-4 in the pattern instructions with your lining only before proceeding with further cutting. I also recommend doing a quick muslin of your entire bodice as the designers of Violette Field Threads mention to make sure you get a custom fit for your body shape. I personally had to make some adjustments for my short height and small bust.
4. You will now need to cut 4 MIRRORED of the FRONT BODICE piece (2 main, 2 lining). Cut 2 on the FOLD of the BACK BODICE piece (1 main, 1 lining). This is the opposite of the original pattern. You may cut out the ties if you are using them and whichever sleeve version you choose at this time. There are no changes to these pieces. We will cut out the bodice ruffles a bit later on.
5. Determine the length of the skirt pieces. The peplum skirt I made in the brown rayon and short sleeve windowpane linen was (width of skirt pattern x 13”). I made it to hit right at the widest part of my hips. Keep in mind I am 5’3” and this length might hit differently on you, or you may wish to have it hit higher up. For the eyelet top I wanted it to sit a little above my hips so I cut (width of skirt pattern x 11”). You can always measure from your natural waist to the spot you would like the bottom of your peplum to hit, then add on 1.5” for seam allowances to custom fit the length you are wanting. My motto is “You can always shorten it!” Cut 2 or 4 depending on the cut chart for your size.
FOLLOW PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS AS WRITTEN, BEGINNING AT STEP 1
All instructions will be the same except “center back” will now be the “center front”.
CONTINUE THROUGH STEP 8 IN THE PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS
ADDING BODICE SEAM RUFFLE (if you choose to not do these continue in pattern instructions through step 15)
1. Cut out 2 bodice seam ruffles. For my brown top I cut my pieces 2” wide making my finished ruffle 1”. My white eyelet I wanted more of a statement ruffle, so I cut it at 3” wide so it would end up at 2” once finished. You could even taper the ruffle if you’d like. Essentially we are making our own “trim”. To find the length of your ruffle piece, measure the bodice edge front and back after sewn together. You will multiply that number by 2 and that is the approximate length you would want for your ruffle piece.
If your width of fabric is close to the length you need, you can use that for your length.
If your width of fabric isn’t long enough, you can cut 2 pieces and seam them together to create 1 ruffle piece in a long enough length. If you do that, make sure to finish the seam with a serger or zig zag stitch. Honestly, if your pieces are a little short it’s not going to be a big deal, just will be a little less gathered.
2. Turn and press 1/4” along one side of the long ruffle piece edge. Turn and press another 1/4”, then sew close to the fold. Repeat for 2nd bodice ruffle piece.
3. Mark the halfway spot of ruffle pieces with a pin. Sew 2 rows of gathering stitches along the raw long edges of the ruffle pieces. Gather the ruffle so that it is approximately the length of your bodice.
4. You will now pin the ruffle piece right sides together and raw edges lining up along the bodice main edge, making sure the lining is pulled out of the way. Pin the halfway marking of ruffle to shoulder seam. Continue pinning ruffle evenly along edge and baste to bodice with 3/8” seam.
CONTINUE WITH PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS THROUGH STEP 15.
After step 15, top stitch 1/2” from the edge of the center front bodice, around the neckline and down the other side of the center front bodice. This will mimic the stitching you will do for the skirt button placket.
CONTINUE WITH PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS THROUGH STEP 23.
AT STEP 23 WHEN ADDING BUTTONS TO THE V TOP FRONT, I SUGGEST ADDING LEAST 3 OR 4 BUTTONS HERE TO PREVENT ANY GAPING ISSUES.
CONTINUE WITH PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS THROUGH STEP 25.
ADDING BUTTON PLACKET DOWN SKIRT FRONT
1. Cut down the entire middle of your front skirt panel piece.
2. Cut 2 pieces of fusible interfacing (1/2” x length of skirt panel). Iron to the wrong side of fabric of both raw edges you just cut.
Fold 1/2” and press. Fold another 1/2” and press. Stitch close to fold. Do this for both edges.
WAIT TO HEM (STEP 26) UNTIL AFTER ADDING THE BUTTON HOLES TO SKIRT.
CONTINUE WITH PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS THROUGH STEP 28.
AT STEPS 27-29, ATTACHING THE SKIRT, FOLLOW THE PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS, MAKING THESE CHANGES:
- Gather the skirt from one middle front opening to the other making sure to not gather the button placket.
- Make sure your ruffle is laying flat to the bodice while pinning on the skirt or you may baste it first if you’d like.
3. Pin and sew the skirt by lining up the middle front skirt opening to the V front button opening right sides together
ADDING BUTTONHOLES TO SKIRT
Continue buttonholes down the skirt front with the same spacing as bodice buttonholes. Do not add buttonholes closer than 2” of the bottom of your skirt to allow for the hem.
You may now hem the skirt (STEP 26)
CONTINUE WITH PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS TO FINISH YOUR TOP
Thank you for sewing along with me and I hope to see some of your Ashton Hack versions soon! I have 3 now and each one is so comfortable and flattering on my figure. I love them all in their own way. I needed an eyelet with statement sleeves for spring and a short sleeve linen for summer to add to my Ashton collection!
Feel free to reach out in the Facebook group or on my Instagram page (@jpressgrove) if you have any questions. I’m always happy to help!
Happy sewing!
Jennifer Pressgrove
