It's no secret that Luna is one of my all time favorite patterns! Something about it just speaks to me, the chic boho style, the opportunity to pair up multiple fabrics, the full skirt, the pockets...I just adore it! After the release I found myself sewing so many versions, but then realized that the short dolman sleeves may not work for the upcoming winter weather. While Luna looks adorable layered over a long sleeve tee, I knew I wanted to play with the sleeves. I wanted to maintain that boho style while making the pattern more suitable for colder weather.
I decided that bell sleeves best fit the style I was looking for and got to work. I just love how it turned out. Today I'll be sharing a simple tutorial for modifying the sleeves on the Luna pattern. If you don't already own the Luna pattern you can buy it {here}.
To get started you need a few things:
-Luna pattern - cut to the size you'll be sewing (you can purchase it here)
-Tape
-Paper
-Ruler
-Pencil
-Scissors
The first thing you'll need to do is square your paper on your cutting mat. This will help ensure that your lines are accurate. To do this just align one long side and one short side of your paper with the grid on your cutting mat. I like to tape it down to prevent it from shifting while I work.
Next you'll take your Luna front bodice pattern piece and arrange it on your paper. Make sure the corner created at the underarm area is aligned with the edge of your paper.
Using a ruler, extend the top cutting line of your sleeve by 5 1/2". You can make this longer or shorter depending on your preference, but 5 1/2" will achieve the same look shown in this post. For larger sizes (size 6 and up) you'll need to use an additional piece of paper to give you enough room to work.
Next you'll square down from the line you just drew to create the new sleeve opening. Measure from the end of the line you just drew to the edge of the paper. For my size 5 there was 7/8" from the end of my line to the edge of the paper. You'll use this measurement to help you draw a straight line.
Now you'll measure 8" down from the top of sleeve and make a mark.
Now we'll connect the underarm with our sleeve edge.
You've now finished drafting the bell sleeve for the front of your Luna!
Repeat these steps exactly to draft the bell sleeve for the back bodice.
Cut out your pattern pieces and then cut your fabric as directed in the pattern. I like to use something lightweight for the bodice fabric, here I used Cotton and Steel lawn by Alexia Marcelle Abegg. {It's totally fine to use a regular quilting cotton, just remember, the entire bodice is lined, even the sleeves.} I was able to cut my bodice main, lining, and back ties out of one yard of fabric. Just be aware when buying your fabric that the longer sleeves do add a bit to the fabric requirements.
Follow the Luna tutorial through step 8. When you get to step 8 you'll be sewing your main to your lining. The instructions tell you to lift your presser foot around the square neckline and around the sleeves at the corners. For the bell sleeve, do NOT pivot at the corner, but rather sew a gentle curve. You will still pivot at the neckline to create a crisp square neckline.
Continue with the tutorial, turning your bodice right side out and ironing well.
Continue with the tutorial instructions for sewing the side seams. While working through step 12, gently curve your seam at the point where the sleeve main and the sleeve linings meet while sewing the underarms. Sew slowly and carefully.
Continue following the Luna tutorial and there you have it! A bell sleeve Luna!
Don't forget to pick up your copy of Luna while it's on sale! Happy sewing!
