Ainsley pattern hack

Even without a hack, Ainsley is such a great pattern with options for a jumpsuit, knee-length or maxi dress! I feel like knit garments are so rewarding to sew because they are easier to fit, require less tailoring and, lets be honest, you feel like you are wearing your pajamas while looking fabulous..hahaha!  But this ruffle pant trend kept popping up everywhere I looked; it was on my Pinterest, Instagram and even in some of my favorite boutiques. Here are a few of the jumpsuits that were inspiring my hack:

Inspiration Jumpsuits

 I finally realized that this would be such an easy pattern hack for Ainsley, giving my go to pattern even more options! So I gave it a try and I LOVE IT!!!!!!!  I feel like it is so on trend and gives it a an extra feminine detail that I can't get enough of. I actually loved it so much that I wanted to share what I did with you guys too! 

 

So let's get started!!

First, go ahead and print out all the Ainsley pieces and assemble them as normal. But I have one important tip before you start hacking your pattern pieces: 

TIP: Measure the inseam of the pant pattern pieces to ensure accurate length prior to cutting and sewing the hem ruffle. If necessary, cut off or add additional length.

Measure your own inseam to the desired length. This ruffle mod would look cute with a full length pant leg that brushed the foot or a cropped ankle length. 

Okay, now that we know the length is correct, lets get started:

1. Begin by placing the back pant leg pattern piece in front of you. Use the charts below to determine how far to measure up from the bottom edge and mark.

step 1

INSEAM EDGE: Measure up from the bottom edge of the back leg pattern piece according to the chart below and draw a ½” line.

Girls Sizes

2T

3T

4T

5

6

7

8

9,10

3 ¼”

3 ½”

3 ¾”

4”

4 ¼”

4 ½”

4 ¾”

5”


Tween Sizes

10

12

14

16

5 ¼”

5 ½”

5 ¾”

6”


Misses Sizes

XXS

XS

S

M

L

XL

XXL

6 ½”

6 ¾”

7”

7 ¼”

7 ½”

7 ¾”

8”


SIDE EDGE: Measure up from the bottom edge of the back leg pattern piece according to the chart below and draw a ½” line.

Girls Sizes

2T

3T

4T

5

6

7

8

9,10

6 ¾”

7”

7 ¼”

7 ½”

7 ¾”

8”

8 ¼”

8 ½”

 

Tween Sizes

10

12

14

16

9 ¼”

9 ½”

9 ¾”

10”

 

Misses Sizes

XXS

XS

S

M

L

XL

XXL

11”

11 ¼”

11 ½”

11 ¾”

12”

12 ¼”

12 ½”

 

2. Draw a curved line from the outside edge line across to the inseam edge line that you drew in the previous step. You can either use a curved ruler or simply freehand draw the line as accurately as possible.

step 2

 

 3. Cut right along the drawn line, creating two pieces, the back pants top and back pants bottom ruffle.

step 3

 4. You now need to add a 1/2" seam allowance to the bottom edge of the new back pants top pattern piece and the top edge of the back pants ruffle.  Tape a piece of paper to the edge and trace a new line that extends ½” past the cut.

 5. We now need to add width to the bottom ruffle piece, this will allow us to gather it up. To determine how much width to add, lay the ruffle out in front of you and measure it along the bottom edge.

step4

6. Write down the full measurement. Now take that number and divide it by 2.  Cut a piece of paper that is the same height as the tallest side edge of the pattern piece and as wide as your new number. Tape it to the pattern piece as shown below to create a new, longer pattern piece. 

 i.e., If the bottom edge of your pattern piece measures 13.5”, divide that in two and you get 6.75”

step 5

You now have a new pattern piece that is Cut 2 mirrored.  This will create a gathered bottom ruffle.

Note: I ran the pattern piece straight along the top edge of the new piece that extends out. Once the ruffle is gathered and attached back onto the pant leg, it is not obvious that area runs straight. 

7. Cut out the Bottom ruffles and sew 1-2 rows of gathering stitches along the top raw edge.

step 6

8. Place the gathered ruffle on top of the cut bottom edge of one pant leg with the right sides touching and the raw edges lining up.  Ensure that the shorter ruffle edge is lining up with the inseam edge of the pant leg and the longer edge is lining up with the outside edge of the pant leg.  Pin to secure.

step7

9. Sew along the pinned seam with either a stretch stich or zig zag stitch. For a professional look, finish the seam with a serger or trim off ½ of the seam allowance and finish with a zig zag stitch.

step 8

10.Repeat for the remaining ruffle and opposite back pant leg. Ensure you are created two mirrored pant legs, this can be an easy mistake since not all knit as an easily distinguishable right and wrong side.

11.Repeats steps 1-10 to create the front pant legs with bottom ruffle.

Now you will just follow the Ainsley tutorial as stated to complete your jumpsuit!  I hope you enjoy this hack :) 

 

xoxo,

Ericka {VFT}

March 12, 2021 by Ericka Wright