Ainsley Pattern Hack {How to create a Ruffled Pant Leg}

Ainsley pattern hack

Even without a hack, Ainsley is such a great pattern with options for a jumpsuit, knee-length or maxi dress! I feel like knit garments are so rewarding to sew because they are easier to fit, require less tailoring and, lets be honest, you feel like you are wearing your pajamas while looking fabulous..hahaha!  But this ruffle pant trend kept popping up everywhere I looked; it was on my Pinterest, Instagram and even in some of my favorite boutiques. Here are a few of the jumpsuits that were inspiring my hack:

Inspiration Jumpsuits

 I finally realized that this would be such an easy pattern hack for Ainsley, giving my go to pattern even more options! So I gave it a try and I LOVE IT!!!!!!!  I feel like it is so on trend and gives it a an extra feminine detail that I can't get enough of. I actually loved it so much that I wanted to share what I did with you guys too! 

 

So let's get started!!

First, go ahead and print out all the Ainsley pieces and assemble them as normal. But I have one important tip before you start hacking your pattern pieces: 

TIP: Measure the inseam of the pant pattern pieces to ensure accurate length prior to cutting and sewing the hem ruffle. If necessary, cut off or add additional length.

Measure your own inseam to the desired length. This ruffle mod would look cute with a full length pant leg that brushed the foot or a cropped ankle length. 

Okay, now that we know the length is correct, lets get started:

1. Begin by placing the back pant leg pattern piece in front of you. Use the charts below to determine how far to measure up from the bottom edge and mark.

step 1

INSEAM EDGE: Measure up from the bottom edge of the back leg pattern piece according to the chart below and draw a ½” line.

Girls Sizes

2T

3T

4T

5

6

7

8

9,10

3 ¼”

3 ½”

3 ¾”

4”

4 ¼”

4 ½”

4 ¾”

5”


Tween Sizes

10

12

14

16

5 ¼”

5 ½”

5 ¾”

6”


Misses Sizes

XXS

XS

S

M

L

XL

XXL

6 ½”

6 ¾”

7”

7 ¼”

7 ½”

7 ¾”

8”

 

 

18" Doll Pattern 

1½”

 

SIDE EDGE: Measure up from the bottom edge of the back leg pattern piece according to the chart below and draw a ½” line.

Girls Sizes

2T

3T

4T

5

6

7

8

9,10

6 ¾”

7”

7 ¼”

7 ½”

7 ¾”

8”

8 ¼”

8 ½”

 

Tween Sizes

10

12

14

16

9 ¼”

9 ½”

9 ¾”

10”

 

Misses Sizes

XXS

XS

S

M

L

XL

XXL

11”

11 ¼”

11 ½”

11 ¾”

12”

12 ¼”

12 ½”

 

 18" Doll Pattern

 2.75"

 

2. Draw a curved line from the outside edge line across to the inseam edge line that you drew in the previous step. You can either use a curved ruler or simply freehand draw the line as accurately as possible.

step 2

 

 3. Cut right along the drawn line, creating two pieces, the back pants top and back pants bottom ruffle.

step 3

 4. You now need to add a 1/2" seam allowance (or 1/4" seam allowance for the 18" doll version) to the bottom edge of the new back pants top pattern piece and the top edge of the back pants ruffle.  Tape a piece of paper to the edge and trace a new line that extends ½” past the cut.

 5. We now need to add width to the bottom ruffle piece, this will allow us to gather it up. To determine how much width to add, lay the ruffle out in front of you and measure it along the bottom edge.

step4

6. Write down the full measurement. Now take that number and divide it by 2.  Cut a piece of paper that is the same height as the tallest side edge of the pattern piece and as wide as your new number. Tape it to the pattern piece as shown below to create a new, longer pattern piece. 

 i.e., If the bottom edge of your pattern piece measures 13.5”, divide that in two and you get 6.75”

You now have a new pattern piece that is Cut 2 on the fold.  This will create a gathered bottom ruffle.

Note: I ran the pattern piece straight along the top edge of the new piece that extends out. Once the ruffle is gathered and attached back onto the pant leg, it is not obvious that area runs straight. 

7. Cut out the Bottom ruffles and sew 1-2 rows of gathering stitches along the top raw edge.

step 6

8. Place the gathered ruffle on top of the cut bottom edge of one pant leg with the right sides touching and the raw edges lining up.  Ensure that the shorter ruffle edge is lining up with the inseam edge of the pant leg and the longer edge is lining up with the outside edge of the pant leg.  Pin to secure.

step7

9. Sew along the pinned seam with either a stretch stich or zig zag stitch. For a professional look, finish the seam with a serger or trim off ½ of the seam allowance and finish with a zig zag stitch.

step 8

10.Repeat for the remaining ruffle and opposite back pant leg. Ensure you are created two mirrored pant legs, this can be an easy mistake since not all knit as an easily distinguishable right and wrong side.

11.Repeats steps 1-10 to create the front pant legs with bottom ruffle.

Now you will just follow the Ainsley tutorial as stated to complete your jumpsuit!  I hope you enjoy this hack :) 

 

xoxo,

Ericka {VFT}

March 12, 2021 by Ericka Wright
Genevieve- $5 Friday and New Bodice Option

Genevieve- $5 Friday and New Bodice Option

Hello friends!

Meet Genevieve, wait no, let me reintroduce you to Genevieve!

Clover Bias Tape Makers {Review & Giveaway}

Clover

{products for review and giveaway were provided by Clover}

 

You walk into your local sewing shop and start browsing.  You are immediately overwhelmed by the amount of little tools they have.  You see helpers for this kind of project and tools for that, and you think to yourself, "do I really need that?"  Well, I am here to answer that question once and for all!

Bias tape makers have been around for a while now, but the real question is do we really need them?  Do they make enough of a difference to spend extra money on them, especially when we could just put those few dollars towards that gorgeous fabric we've been swooning over?  Or maybe you'd rather just buy your bias tape.  Maybe the whole process of making your own is just too tedious and you end up with a pile of half useable bias and a whole bunch of burnt fingers!

Bias Tape Makers

 

I will admit, I love the look of homemade bias tape, but I do not always want to go through the process of making my own.  Often times I will search through my stash to see what pieces of premade tape I can use so I don't have to make my own.  I just do not enjoy the whole making your own bias tape experience.  My fingers get burnt, my tape never looks great, and it is always lopsided or off kilter.  It just isn't worth it.  Until now!!  Listen, these little tools have changed my entire outlook on the whole bias tape making process!  Not only am I a homemade bias convert, but I bet by the end of this post you will be too!

Clover Bias Tape Makers

So let's start at the beginning.  Clover sent over 2 different size bias tape makers for me to try, which meant I needed 2 different size bias strips of fabric.  I was working with the 3/4" and the 1" bias tape makers.  You want your strips to be double the width of the maker, i.e. if you are using the 3/4" maker, cut your strip 1.5" wide.  If you are using the 1" maker, cut your strip 2" wide.  Get it?  Easy peasy, right???

Rotary CutterCutting Bias Tape

I decided to go with a classic grey and white stripe, because I love the look of striped bias tape and you can't buy that in the store!  I got all my materials ready to go and began cutting!  I used this tutorial to cut my bias strips because the way she does it is genius and she makes it so simple and easy!  I know I know, the tutorial is for an envelope pillow, but take my word on this one.  The video shows a great way to make your strips and you won’t be pulling out your hair or cursing while you do it, I promise!

Bias StripsMaking Bias TapeUsing a Bias Tape Maker

So my strips are cut and I have both sizes ready to go along with my little gadgets.  Using the bias tape makers are very simple.  Take the maker and place your strip right side down.  Insert the pointed end into the back of the maker.  You will notice there is a little open “u” shape on the back.  That is where your fabric goes.  Keep pushing that fabric in until it comes out the other end.  There is a little slot on the top of the bias tape maker where you can insert a pin, awl, etc. if you need to help move the fabric along. 

Bias StripIroning Bias Strip

So now your fabric is in the bias tape maker and you are ready to go.  You will notice the fabric is already starting to fold!  This is the beauty of these little tools!  It really does the work for you!  Now grab that iron and steam steam steam as you slowly pull the bias tape maker along your fabric!  You will notice there is a little handle you can hold onto.  Definitely use this!  The maker itself is metal and can get hot from all that steam, so that handle comes in handy!

Finished Bias Strip

So now you have your bias tape done!  You can fold it over again and steam the heck out of it and voila!  Double fold bias tape in seriously a quarter of the time, no burnt fingers, and it looks like a professional did it!

Double Fold Bias StripStriped Bias Tape

I went ahead and did the same thing for both strips!  Just remember, your strip needs to be double the size of your maker!  I was in awe of how quick and easy using these little gadgets were that I just couldn’t stop!  I decided that the grey and white stripe were so pretty, but I needed some color in my life!  Bright yellow bias tape???  Yes please!!!

Yellow Bias TapeHomemade Bias Tape

 I will be honest with you all.  I was very hesitant to use these.  I kept thinking there was no way these were going to work and that they would be a waste of my time and money.  But I was so so wrong!  These bias tape makers are absolutely amazing!  I’ve used a lot of sewing tools in the 2 short years I’ve been sewing, but these in the top 5 list of tools!  Quite possibly the top 2!!! 

These are easy to use and provide amazing results!  I’m pretty sure I need every size now!  And while I knew I would use these two sizes the most, I’m pretty sure I can find a use for every size Clover makes!  So if you’ve been on the fence about these and just didn’t want to spend the money, I’m telling you to SPEND THE MONEY!  They are 100% worth it!  A quality product that produces great results and is fast and easy! 

1 Inch Bias Tape Maker3/4 Inch Bias Tape Maker

 

Now that your bias tape is all ready, all you need is a pretty pattern to use!  The Haven Dress pattern is the perfect summer pattern to try your new bias tape out on!  So gather up all that homemade bias you just made and get to sewing!

So here’s the best part!  Clover graciously sent over not one, not two, but THREE sets of these bias tape makers!  That means two lucky readers are going to win their own set of bias tape makers!  Make sure you enter below for your chance to win!  And check out Clover’s website and take a look at all the other cool sewing and crafting tools they have!

 a Rafflecopter giveaway

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!