Day 4 is upon us, and I don't know about you, but I am getting antsy to get this bodice finished! Normally when I sew, I push through and try to get everything done in one sitting. I am an instant gratification type of sewer, so Sew-a-Long weeks take me a little out of my comfort zone, and let me slow down and enjoy the entire sewing process.
Let's get started. If you are not using sleeves and want to go sleeveless, here's what you are going to do. We ended yesterday by sewing up the middle back and around the neckline. You are now going to sew around each armhole. This will finish the armholes so you don't need to add sleeves. Make sure to understitch your collar before sewing the armholes. Also, be very careful and pin your collar up and out of the way so you don't catch it in the armholes! Once you have it sewed, you are going to pull the back of the bodice through to the front of the bodice. Take your time and pull gently.
If you are using sleeves grab your sleeve pieces and iron the bottom up 1/4in and another 1/4in. Since I am using the cap sleeve, I am going to go ahead and sew my hem. You can unfold your sleeve and sew it after you finish your bodice if you prefer. Do this for both sleeve pieces.
Find the center point of your sleeve at the top. I like to fold my sleeve in half, matching the sides, and place a pin in the center. Then measure out 2 1/4in or 2in, depending on your size and sleeve you are using, on either side of the center point and place a pin. This is where you will sew your gathering stitch. Do this for both sleeves.
Now let's pin the sleeve to the bodice right side up and place your sleeve on top, RST. I like to start at both ends and pin, and work my way towards the center, pinning as I go. Once you get to your gathering stitch, stop. Pull your bobbin threads to gather the center of the sleeve and fit to your bodice.
Sew your sleeve to your bodice using a 1/2in SA, making sure to not catch the collar as you sew. Finish your seam with either a serger or zig zag stitch.
Turn your bodice so right sides are touching and match the underarm seam at one sleeve and pin all the layers together. Then pin from the hem of the sleeve to the bottom of the bodice. Sew along the pinned seam. Do the same on the other side of your bodice.
If you haven't hemmed your sleeves, do that now! Your bodice is almost done. We just need to add buttonholes and buttons. This is my most non favorite part of sewing. I really don't like buttonholes, but my sewing machine at least makes the job pretty easy. Make sure you measure about 1/4-1/2in from the top of your bodice. This is where you want your first buttonhole to start, and 1in from the bottom of the bodice. This is where you want you last buttonhole to end. Measure and place the rest of your buttonholes where you want them.
I like to mark where the bottom of each hole will be. I find this works best for me. Before you start sewing, test your buttonhole on a scrap piece of fabric. Make sure it is the same thickness/type of fabric you are sewing with. There's nothing worse than having to seam rip a buttonhole out of your bodice.
Once you have all your settings right, take to your machine and sew your buttonholes onto our bodice. I hold my breath when I do this. There is always a big sigh of relief when I'm done and I don't have to have a date with my seam ripper! Take a small pair of snips or your seam ripper, and open up your buttonholes. Make sure you are careful to not clip any of your threads.
Next you will want to sew on your buttons. I like to have my model try the bodice on to see how much I need to overlap the back. My daughter is very slim, so because of her build I often need to overlap a bit more. On this one, I am overlapping about 2in. Lay your bodice flat and overlap the amount you want and pin.
I like to now put pins in the middle of each buttonhole. This shows me exactly where to sew my buttons on. Sew your buttons on and you are done for the day!
You now have a finished bodice!! So pretty and the end is near! We will be creating our skirts and finishing up tomorrow! Make sure to take a photo and add it to the Day 4 album! See you back here tomorrow!
