It's already Day 4, and today is a big sewing day!  We are going to be busy busy busy, so let's get to work!  This is probably the step that gets the most questions.  Make sure you go slow and pay attention!  Grab your bodice that we worked on yesterday and turn it inside out.  Make sure your straps are pointing up.

We are going to work on the elastic casing.  Iron the top edge down 1/4in so wrong sides are touching.  Flip your straps down now and fold that edge another 3/4in.  I found it helpful to start with the bodice sections when ironing, and then using my clips to keep the fabric from moving.  Be careful when you are folding and ironing that your fabrics do not shift.  Use clips/pins/whatever works for you.

Once you have folded and ironed all the way around, flip the ties up and secure in place.  We've had some questions as to why we are sewing the straps this way.  You will notice that the raw edge of the bodice, ruffle, and ties are not showing.  Once sewn, they will be fully enclosed so no raw edges show.  Depending on your fabrics, it can be a little bulky to sew, but once your elastic is inserted, this bulk goes away and is not an issue.

Sew right along the folded edge, leaving a 1.5in opening on the back bodice.  You will find that you may need to sew slowly once your reach the shoulder straps.  I will be honest, I broke a needle or two trying to go too fast, but once I slowed down, everything was smooth sailing!

Now turn your bodice right side out.  We want to secure the straps to the top of the bodice.  Sew as close to the top edge of the bodice as you can.  Remember that this is out elastic casing, and we still need to be able to insert our elastic inside.  I like to sew back and forth a few times to make sure the straps are secure.  Do this for all 4 straps.

Let's insert the elastic into the casing now.  Take your elastic piece and pull it through the casing.  I like to use a safety pin on the end of mine to help guide it through.  Make sure to keep an eye on the end of the elastic so you don't pull it all the way through.  Once you have it inserted, overlap the ends about 1/2in and sew them together.

You can now close up the opening, so sew that closed!  You now have a lovely bodice!  YAY!  If you are creating the shorts, make sure to look at the photos in the instructions!

If you are working on the shorts option, grab your ruffle pieces.   Fold the shorts ruffle in half and pin to create a tube. Sew together , trim off ½ of the seam allowance and serge or zigzag stitch. Repeat for the remaining shorts ruffle.  Finish the angled edge of the ruffle pieces.

Turn the finished edge and iron 1/4in and then another 1/4in.  If you are adding a trim, do that now and topstitch!  Sew your gathering stitches along the top edge but do not gather yet!  Find the center of the ruffle at the widest end and mark on both ruffle pieces.

You now need to sew your shorts pieces together.  Take the front pieces and place RST, and sew along the curved middle edge.  Trim and finish the SA.  Do the same for the back pieces, sewing along the curved middle edge and finishing the SA.  Open up both the front and back pieces you just sewed, and place them on top of each other, RST.  Sew along both side edges, making sure to finish the SA.  

Turn the shorts right side out and grab a ruffle piece.  Place the right side of the ruffle touching the right side of the leg of the shorts, matching the center mark of the ruffle to the side seam of the shorts.  Now pull the gathering stitches to the same width as the leg hole and pin the ruffle to the opening.  Repeat this for the other leg ruffle, and sew both ruffles to the leg openings.  Finish the SA, iron the ruffles down flat and topstitch.  

If you are making a dress, here's where I pop back in!  Grab your skirt pieces and match up the short ends on both sides.  Sew using a 1/2in SA, trim and finish the seams.

Hem the bottom of the skirt, folding the bottom raw edge up 1/4in and ironing, and then 1 1/2in and ironing.  This is a deep hem,  but will look so beautiful once you are done!  Sew close to the folded edge.

Flip your skirt right side out and sew 2 rows of gathering stitches at the top edge.  Gather your skirt to the same width as your top.  

And there you have it!  Day 4 is complete!  Make sure you add your Day 4 photo into the album.  Tomorrow we will complete our garments!  YAY!  If you are behind, don't fret!  You have the weekend to catch up!  See you all tomorrow!


July 13, 2017 by Emily Steiger